Church of St. George the Victorious in Gruziny - a piece of Orthodox Georgia in Moscow

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55.754; 37.63146

Russia, Moscow, Nikitnikov lane, 3

Moscow

Russia

Phones:

(495) 698-34-51; (495) 698-26-43

Church of the Holy Life-Giving Trinity in Nikitniki

(Church of the Georgian Icon of the Mother of God on Varvarka) is a standard of Moscow pattern design of the mid-17th century, built by Yaroslavl merchants in Kitay-Gorod. This building is a milestone in the history of Russian architecture; it served as a model for many Moscow churches in the second half of the 17th century.

History[edit]

Back in the 16th century, there was a wooden church in the name of the holy martyr Nikita. In the 1620s, it burned down and, by order of the Yaroslavl merchant Grigory Nikitnikov, who lived nearby, a new stone church was built in the name of the Holy Trinity in 1628-1651. Sources mention construction work in 1631-34 and 1653. There is a heated debate among scientists regarding which of these dates the construction of the surviving church should be dated.

The southern aisle of the temple was dedicated to Nikita the Martyr, and the revered icon of this saint was transferred to it from the burnt church. It served as the tomb of the temple builder and members of his family. At the beginning of the 20th century, the northern facade, where there was a porch symmetrical to the southern one, was distorted by extensions.

Since 1654, the main shrine of the temple has been a copy of the Georgian icon of the Mother of God, made in connection with the deliverance of the capital from the pestilence. For this reason, the temple was commonly called the Church of the Georgian Mother of God. For the 250th anniversary of this event, a special chapel was dedicated to the Georgian Mother of God in the basement (1903, architect V.I. Verigin). This is where the old name of Nikitnikov Lane came from - “Gruzinsky”, which was changed to the current one in 1926.

In 1920 the temple was closed for worship and in 1934 transferred to the State Historical Museum. In 1923-41. The Simon Ushakov Museum operated here, and since 1963, the Museum of Old Russian Painting. In the post-war period, it was crowded with modern office buildings that have nothing to do with the historical context.

In 1999, the parish was revived and received legal registration.

In 2008, the former church building was transferred to the parish.

Interesting Facts

There are many interesting facts about St. George's Church. Here are just a few of them:

  • the rector of the temple is Fyodor Krechetov, he specially learned the Georgian language in order to conduct church services in it;
  • there is still no cross on the central dome;
  • There is a Sunday school on the church premises;
  • The cathedral is the only Georgian church in Moscow.

Despite the fact that the Georgian metochion is located on the territory, the church officially belongs to the Russian Orthodox Church and is subordinate to the Moscow Patriarchate.

If you want to buy some souvenirs and Orthodox goods, then feel free to go... to the cafe, which is located next to the temple. There is a monastery shop here where you can buy icons and candles, crosses, incense and other church paraphernalia. Orthodox literature, video, audio, including in Georgian, are also presented here.

Description[edit]

Architecture[edit]

Frescoes
Although the customer was a merchant from Yaroslavl, the architectural design of the church has nothing in common with the huge four-pillar churches of the Yaroslavl school. On the high basement, where merchants stored their goods, there was a pillarless quadrangle, covered with a closed vault. The church is crowned with five purely decorative domes (of which only the central one is illuminated), resting on two tiers of kokoshniks. On the northern and southern sides it is adjacent to chapels with similar kokoshnik slides and one dome. In the western part of the temple there is a porch with a gallery, which is adjoined on the northern side by a ceremonially decorated, tall bell tower tent, and on the southern side by a demonstratively placed porch on the roadway of the alley, also decorated with a small tent.

The walls of the temple are richly decorated with white stone carvings. Several different types of platbands are used. Tiles are actively used. An analogy to these decorative solutions can be found in the Terem Palace; It is possible that this is the work of one team.

Interior[edit]

The church has preserved a multi-figure, dynamic painting based on the Dutch engravings of the Bible by P. Borcht. Made in 1652-53, probably by the best masters of the Armory Chamber - Joseph Vladimirov (the icon “The Descent of the Holy Spirit on the Apostles” is one of the few icons accurately attributed to him), Simon Ushakov and others. The icons of the local row of iconostasis of the main temple and the southern chapel also belong to their authorship.

For this church, Ushakov painted the icon “Tree of the Russian Sovereigns” (now in the Tretyakov Gallery).

Interior of the temple

The inside of the Georgian Church is very spacious. During the service, the temple was crowded. Many parishioners came here with their families, with all their children. It is surprising when you can see so many men in the temple.

During the service, all the chants are performed by the choir in different voices, and this Georgian polyphonic singing is simply mesmerizing.

After communion, according to Orthodox tradition, you are supposed to drink it with sweet water and eat prosphora. In Russian churches, as a rule, a slightly sweetish liquid for drinking is poured from teapots, but in Georgian churches it looks like liqueur or wine in a corresponding vessel. The prosphora, however, did not differ in shape from the usual ones.

The church is painted inside, on top and on all sides: ecumenical and Georgian saints silently look from the walls.

Quotes from the Gospel written in Georgian are provided.

The frescoes were made by the famous artist Lasha Kintsurashvili, who specially came from Georgia for this purpose.

Near the icon of the Great Martyr George the Victorious there are always people who turn in prayer to their beloved saint. The miraculous icon in a gilded icon case is located on the right side of the altar. Anyone can pray and light a candle near it.

And the Georgian Church in Moscow keeps shrines: pieces of the relics of St. Matrona of Moscow and St. Seraphim of Sarov.

I was very impressed by the huge entrance door, with images made using wood carving techniques. On top is a semicircular wooden panel with angels holding a cross in their hands.

And on the doors themselves there are compositions from the Gospel. It’s amazing how it was possible to convey all the images so accurately and almost exquisitely on wood!

The end of the service smoothly developed into active communication: exchanging news, discussing some common affairs. Moreover, it was quite noisy and emotional, which is also not often seen in Russian churches, where all parishioners try to speak in a whisper.

Patronal holidays[edit]

Day of the Holy Trinity

— 50th day after Easter

  • Georgian Icon of the Mother of God – September 4

John the Theologian, apostle

— May 21, December 9

  • Nikita Gotfsky – September 28

Nicholas the Wonderworker, Archbishop of Myra, Saint

— May 22, December 19

How to get to the Georgian temple in Moscow

The exact address of the church: Moscow, st. Bolshaya Gruzinskaya, 13.

How to get there by public transport? You can use the metro, the nearest station is Barrikadnaya . In this case, you will have to walk 820 meters. You can get off at the Krasnopresnenskaya - the temple is 860 m away. Bus and trolleybus stops are located nearby: 250 m away - st. Klimashkina, 230 m away - Zoological Lane 8. A little further is the metro station "Ulitsa 1905 Goda" , from which you will have to walk about 1 kilometer.

You can focus on the Moscow Zoo and Georgian Square. Near the cathedral there is the building of Tsereteli’s workshop, next to which there are many open-air sculptures.

And right next to the entrance to the St. George's Compound there is a small square, in the center of which there is a monument to the great Georgian poet and thinker Shota Rustaveli.

How to get there by private car? From the Garden Ring you need to drive 350 m along the street. Barrikadnaya towards the Third Transport Ring, then in front of the Moscow Zoo turn onto the street. Bolshaya Gruzinskaya, then straight 500 meters, turn left onto Zoological Lane. The temple will be on the right side. Follow the road sign: the Church of the Great Martyr George the Victorious in Gruziny.

There is paid and free parking nearby, although it is not always possible to find a free space.

Coordinates of the Church of the Great Martyr George the Victorious in Gruziny in Moscow: 55.76586, 37.57657.

On the map you can determine the exact location of the Georgian St. George's Metochion in Moscow on Bolshaya Gruzinskaya Street (click “+” or “-” to zoom in or out the image).

To stay in Moscow for a few days, you can easily rent an apartment or room on Airbnb, or book a hotel in any convenient location in the city through Booking.

I visited the Church of St. George the Victorious in Gruziny on October 27, 2019. And next to the Georgian Church in Moscow there is a delightful Gothic Roman Catholic Cathedral, but only on Malaya Gruzinskaya Street.

The map below shows other attractions of Moscow and the Moscow region that I was able to visit.

Share in the comments below which unusual temples you have visited and which of them made the greatest impression.

Pilgrim[edit]

Schedule of services:

On the eve of Sundays, great and twelve holidays, at 17:00 - all-night vigil.

On Sunday, Great and Twelfth Feasts, at 9:00 am - Liturgy.

Confession is performed after the all-night vigil and before the liturgy.

On Wednesdays, at 17:00, a prayer service with an akathist in front of the “Georgian” or “Kazan-Tobolsk” Mother of God alternately.

On other days the temple is open from 10:30 to 15:30.

Where to try Georgian cuisine in Moscow

Muscovites and guests of the capital are attracted not only by the church itself, but also by the Georgian Compound restaurant, which serves traditional Georgian dishes. The establishment is located in the refectory, which is located in a separate building near the cathedral.

There is a buffet on the 0th floor, a culinary shop and a church shop on the 1st floor, and a cafe on the 2nd floor.

There is also a bakery here - all dishes are prepared on the premises.

Every visitor who makes a purchase invests money in the construction of the temple. And believe me, there is something to buy in a Georgian store! The smell of freshly baked bread can be heard from afar. There is always a queue for fresh fragrant loaves, loaves, and buns. The cost of a baguette or loaf is from 100 rubles. And the variety of confectionery products will not leave any sweet tooth indifferent!..

The restaurant menu includes dishes of Georgian cuisine. Prices are average, but you can eat inexpensively. A portion of rich kharcho and other soups costs from 300 rubles. Prices for main courses (lulya kebab, ojakhuri, chalagadzhi) are on average in the range of 400-800 rubles. A serving of khinkali with a hearty filling – from 300 rubles, khachapuri and pies – from 350 rubles. The menu also includes pizza, pastries, cakes, and lemonade from Georgia.

The shop sells natural vegetable oil by the glass: grape, olive, Kakhetian, etc. You can buy vinegar, adjika, spices, tea, jam, chestnut honey.

The cafe is open from 08:00 to 21:00 and serves breakfast in the morning.

You cannot pay by card - only cash is accepted. This place received high ratings from users of the Yandex Maps service.

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